Although lacking the sheer diversity of the Seoul food scene, Korea’s second city nevertheless packs a few punches of its own. In this southern city of mountains, sand and seafood, can be found some of the best eating experiences Korea has to offer. So, whether you’re a jaded Seoul-sider looking to escape the summer heat of the city for Busan’s marginally cooler climes, or a local hungry for something a bit different, follow my tips to find out what’s cooking and where with my five Busan food adventures.

1. Mountain Goat
The hills intersecting Busan not only provide a welcome escape from the city, they also hide a few food secrets of their own. Take a hike through Mount Geumjeong in the North of the city and you could end up doing more eating and drinking than exercising. The local specialty here is goat bulgoki, with no less than 123 restaurants specializing in the dish. Most of these are centered around Sanseong village, near Geumjeong Fortress’s East Gate, where a kilogram of goaty goodness costs around 60,000 KRW (you should be able to order half of that if your party is small.) Barbecued over hot coals and served with an impressive array of banchan, the goat is charred on the outside yet tender within, it’s trademark muskiness perfectly balanced when wrapped in a sesame leaf with a dab of ssamjang.

Getting there:  Bus number 203 from Oncheonjang station goes to the East Gate/Sanseong Village. For a view and a hike take the cable car from Geumjeong Park (ten minutes walk west of Oncheonjang station) and then follow directions to the South Gate, from where the East Gate and Sanseong village are well signposted.

2. Nampodong Street Food
No Busan food guide would be complete without a mention of the street food and in my opinion, the city’s best is to be found in the bustling market streets and food alleys of the old port area. The streets around the PIFF Cinema are a good place to start. Options here include dried squid, sweet potato fries and dukbokki (rice cakes,) while just north of PIFF in Gukje market half a dozen stalls stop traffic with crispy seafood pancakes and steaming hot pork and onion fried dumplings. Explore the area further and you’re likely to come across japchae (glass noodles cooked in soy sauce) as well as a whole host of tempura-style stalls battering just about anything they can get their hands on.

Getting there:  Take line 1 to Nampodong station, exit 1.

3. Jagalchi Fish Market
It should come as no surprise that the country’s biggest fish market is also one of the best places in the city to eat Hoe (raw fish.) You could spend hours here marveling at the array of sea creatures on offer, but to get the most out of Jagalchi, put your money where your mouth is. Pay a visit to either the main sail–like buiding or the warehouse-style section next to the outdoor market and you’re sure to find something that suits your budget and taste (as long as your taste includes raw seafood that is.) A trip to the latter provides the most atmospheric location as you dine at small tables squeezed between the buckets and tanks of the live produce. Expect to pay anywhere from 15,000KRW for a farmed flounder, to upwards of 100,000KRW for something from the tanks (tip: the stuff in buckets is cheaper.) You will usually be provided with some fresh sea squirt and other pieces to pick at before diving in to some of the freshest, silkiest raw fish you’re ever likely to experience. Sometime during the meal they’ll also bring you the remainder of your fish fleshing out a broth so deep you’ll think you’re at the bottom of the ocean.

Getting there:  Take Subway Line 1 to Nampodong, exit 2.

4. Chicken and Beer at the Baseball
Busan’s Lotte Giants may not be having the best season in the club’s history, but as far as atmosphere goes, there’s no better place to lose yourself in a bucket of chicken and a couple of brews. For the good stuff, ignore the people selling bags at the entrance of the stadium (it’ll probably be cold) and head straight for the BBQ Chicken franchise on the second floor. You may have to wait a while, but once you get yours (large portion 15000KRW) you can be sure the chicken will be as good as it gets – substantial pieces of breast and bone meat coated in a well seasoned, breadcrumb batter and fried until golden and delicious. As for liquid refreshment the stadium is BYO so stop off in Homeplus on the way or buy from any number of vendors either inside or outside the stadium. Don’t be surprised if you end up with an orange bag on your head by the end of the night, you have been warned…

Getting there: Take Line 3 to Sports Complex Station and follow the signs. Tickets are usually available at the box office in the stadium on the day of the game.

5. The Mega-Buffet
Finally, for a good cross-section of the oceans bounty and a little more besides, hit up one of the city’s mega-buffets for a good-old fashioned gorging. Many people come to these for the crab legs alone, but venture further and you’ll find not only a huge array of seafood on offer, but also a mammoth selection of salads, mains, desserts and more. Two of the best buffets in my opinion are the d’Maris Seafood Buffet in Jangsan, and the Novotel Ambassador Hotel Buffet in Haeundae. The former (30000KRW per person) is home to the biggest selection of seafood I’ve ever witnessed, while the latter (50000KRW) includes unlimited wine (leave your qualms about quality at home) and a better non-seafood section in an elegant setting overlooking Haeundae beach. Dishes at both are in constant rotation but a recent trip to Novotel turned up some exceptionally tender chicken Teriyaki and fantastic roast duck pancakes!

Getting there: d’Maris – Line 2, Jangsan Subway Station, exit 15. Novotel Ambassador – Line 2 Haeundae Subway Station (follow directions to the beach, you can’t miss it!)

By Daniel O’Sullivan, editor of Street Foodie.  Find more food related posts as he travels asia at his blog.

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