In the shadow of one of Seoul’s Islamic mosques, atop a hill in Itaewon, you might get the sensation you’re not in Korea.  It has a more exotic feel to it, right down to the men in white robes and beards ambling to a café replete with smoking pipes and tea.  

The restaurant is Wazwan, which offers a “royal taste of India” through Kashmiri cuisine.  The name of the restaurant itself refers to Kashmir’s most formal meal, a lengthy multicourse affair that offers a range of pilafs, meats, and curries.  Most groups spend considerable time working through the extensive menu, which serves tandoori chicken, lamb and vegetarian curries, and other specialty dishes cooked with care.  Unlike other Indian buffet style places in the area, Wazwan’s food is hot, made to order, and authentic.

The naan is the best in Seoul.  A crisp, light, and chewy offering that makes excellent work of the delicious curries.  Open weekdays and weekends.  Prices range from W8,000 curries to W20,000 entrees and meats.

Directions: From exit 3 Itaewon Station, walk to 50m to the corner.  Turn right at the gas station at the corner and go up to the top of the hill.  Take a left at the top of the hill and walk past the mosque.  Wazwan is 10 meters from the mosque entrance. 

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